Recipe Box: Make gazpacho, a Spanish summer in sippable form

Foods that become lifelong obsessions, like all obsessions, often emerge from a single memory. Here’s one: The summer before junior year in college. The last week of two months backpacking across Europe. Some tapas bar in Madrid. A chilled gazpacho in the sweltering heat. Tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, garlic, and smoked paprika, blended into an orange color I’ve never before seen in soup form. One sip, and the word that came to mind was zesty. It was vegetable soup but with the refreshing qualities of a frosty beer. Forget grilled burgers and sweet corn; this was the taste of summer.

I’ve thought about that bowl of gazpacho for years, mostly about the miracle of alchemy—that what’s essentially cold vegetable purée could taste so wonderful, like Spain in sippable form. The word “gazpacho” has since been misappropriated to include fruits like watermelon and strawberries (which you …

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