Recipe Box: An unconventional beef rib roast delivers maximum umami

When I was a wee lad, Christmas at the dinner table never included ducks, hams, or turkeys. It was always a standing beef rib roast, crusted with peppercorns, the color of dark hickory. I thought I was doing the table a favor when I requested an end piece, saving the more luxurious medium-rare center cut for more deserving guests. I had my reasons. The end piece, although a bit less pink, was where visible fat caramelized into delicious crisp gnarls, where the flavors from the marinade concentrated, and through the roasting process, amplified its natural beefiness 10 times louder.

Our rib roast was unconventional. The idea that we would marinate a desirable cut of beef like a bone-in ribeye roast is, to some, ruining a perfectly good thing (bless the purists who preach “a good piece of meat needs nothing more than salt and pepper”). That my mom would marinate …

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *